🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.